i found there is really only one necessary place to shop in florence, société anonyme. it's a clothing concept store near san ambrogio, a more obscure part of town that tourists generally don't go. they're outfitted with simple, quirky, well made merchandise from designers in sweden, denmark, france, and beyond. pick up a holga camera, play with the gold fishes, say hello to massimo, and of course if you spot my darling stefano through the window, (most likely sporting a new pair of vintage ray ban glasses) give him un bacione for me. and be ready to buy black, oooh how the italians love black.
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